Ova Hia

That's what Georgie calls Hiva Oa.

Our Hanakee Pearl Lodge Hotel is high above the bay and overlooks a giant mountain that dominates the village of Atuona below. Here are all the mod cons, especially pool. Here we were treated to Champagne and a Polynesian band on our arrival, still in shock from the air basket experience.

These islands have wild bantam like hens of magnificent plumage that riddle the place. They were introduced from distant time zone, Indonesia?, and have NOT reset their clocks. They actually cluck and crow 24 hours, maybe homesick. At three o'clock in the morning to a bird they start their crowing just outside our bungalows. Even the Director says he can't get back to sleep. Although I have not knowingly eaten meat since 1969 I was close to having Poulet au lait de coco.

The Director is an interesting character and new to the job. His previous assignements included many years working as a concert soloist, playing the flute. He retired because of Tinnitus which confirms my conviction that it is a high frequency disease and I don't mean the higher you get the more frequent it becomes. Piccolo players get it and pianists and whistle players as I know to my detriment. He has also worked in hospitality industries and spent 2 years as a butler. He has taken on the management of this remote spot with his wife and 5 year old child. He has a great sense of humour and French Bonhomie.

He was also related by marriage to the late French painter Francis Picabia and had stories of Duchamp and Calder amongst others. Since the age of 7 he practised the flute 7 hours a day. on our last night he gave as a small concert of classical favourites, Bach, Verdi and more. Absolutely superb playing, breath control, tone etc and such a surprise to be sitting above a remote bay listening to such a thing.

We asked about the islanders and what they did. He said "somewhere between very little and nothing". He also said they had everything they needed around them. If hungry one only needs to wander a little to find abundant fruit for the picking and fish to catch. There is little to spend money on and the export of Copra and Noni brings in cash.

It is very ill advised to make all these snap descriptions of places and especailly people based on a three day stay. But first impressions are not to be underestimated as much research shows when it comes to the attraction between the sexes. That said, we found the islanders of Hive Oa somewhat aloof, indifferent and closed to winterpoodles. More so than on Nuku Hiva.

The village Atuona houses the Paul Gauguin Musee, a very impressive set of connected houses built in the traditional style including the restored house where he lived. There are no originals on view but many legal fakes and some excellent display work tracking his stay on the island. It appears from what we heard that he spent much of the day drunk and if living today would be in jail for contravening the Mann Act several times over. A cantakerous rebellious type but completely genuine about his mission and vision. Some of the letters on display were heart rending to read. A sad tale but a great artist. Where have I heard that before (Mozart, Van Morrison, Munch etc).

Serving us at table we had another sweetheart of unknown gender and also a chamelelion lady who was dressed like a Diva, poured into a white dress with High heels and a flower behind the ear. She would cut you dead or give you a smile for no known reason. We called her Maria Callous.

More to come..........